Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
